***** PLEASE NOTE*****

We have compiled this information to help 2B builders with the task of fitting their side panels & rear wheel arches, under no circumstances can we be held responsible for any problems of poor fit, creases etc that you may incur, you are responsible for your build.

Before attempting this part of the 2B build, you need to make sure that you have the necessary tools.

G cramps, electric drill with correct sized bits, rubber mallet, tin snips, marker pen, a selection of self tapping screws, file & emery paper.

When drilling, put tape on first, this will help to stop the drill "moving" on that initial purchase.

You will also need a minimum of 2 people, 3 would be better, and I don't mean shouting for the wife every now & again to hold something, get someone who is really interested in helping and doesn't mind getting their hands mucky. Don't try to do it on your own, you will bugger it up!

Remember, don't rush this, take your time, if you mess these up, you will kick yourself for ever!!

If you click onto the small picture, you will go to a larger copy of it.

RHSC told you to cut the top fold, back a bit, to clear the dash tube. You then have to put a cut in the bottom fold, make sure that it's in line with the edge of the one you've done at the top. Cut right up to the corner, and make it so that one side will go over the other when needed to. 2b1a.jpg (6170 bytes)
Put the side panel against the chassis, remembering that the Battery box "shelf" etc. should go OVER the side panel, not under it. Hold it up to the bottom chassis rail and clamp it to the top chassis tube with a G clamp & a piece of wood, so that you don't scratch your panel. Then,   drill and fit a self tapper through the bottom fold, approx 25mm in front of the "cut" Check that everything looks OK, at the front, and put a couple more self tappers spaced out, into the bottom tube, in the half to the front of the car. 2B2a.jpg (7598 bytes)  Make sure the bottom fold is up against the chassis.

Remove any tie wraps that are on the chassis tubes first.


The back of the panel is now stuck out like this, you need to trim the fold,(Not the side!) to clear the axle mounting, as you push it in towards the chassis. (it's a good idea to check that the edges of the "cut" are riding over each other as you push the rear of the panel in)

2B4a.jpg (7143 bytes) Take care here, beware of kinking.
Once you are happy with the panel clearing the axle mounting, you can then hold the panel against the axle mounting, and put a couple of self tappers through into the bottom tube. 2B5a.jpg (6956 bytes) Hold it straight, don't be tempted to push it in against the chassis, just up to the axle mounting.
You should now have it something like this, with the bottom fold screwed up to the bottom chassis tube. 2B6a.jpg (7738 bytes) Note how it's "away" from the chassis side.
Carefully, push the panel down a little, and mark where the roll over tube is, cut down these marks approx. 20mm. 2B7a.jpg (6968 bytes)
Before you actually form the curvature on the panel, you will need to put a screw through the top fold into the top chassis tube, about 4 inches in front of the dash tube.

Be aware that due to welding heat etc. this tube is more than likely NOT straight, so you may need to put a small piece of packing material in between the panel fold and the chassis tube, and screw through it.

2B8a.jpg (7552 bytes)  If there is a gap, and you don't fit packing, then you will crease the panel next!!!! Use strips of plate or aluminium.

Also make sure there are no tie wraps over any of the tubes, or these will mark your panel.

PLEASE NOTE: We will now show you how to do the side panels, then make the wheel arches fit the side panels, this means that you can have whatever curvature you wish on the side panel. An alternative method would be to make the wheels arches first (go to bottom of page for link) then make the side panel curve fit the wheel arch.The decision is yours!
By pushing down on the rear of the panel, you can now look for the curve that you want. It is not necessary to go for a football shape, just a nice "roundness"

Here, the other panel has already been done, and by making a cardboard template, this panel is being moved up & down until the same curvature is obtained. Once found, mark a line on the roll over tube where the top edge of the panel touches.

2B9a.jpg (7033 bytes)
On the line that you've marked, drill a hole and half screw a self tapper in. Then carefully push down on the rear of the panel and wedge it under the screw. 2B10a.jpg (5379 bytes)
You should now be like this. 2B11a.jpg (6699 bytes)
Now you have to "form" the top edge of the panel over the tube, get a good hold of it, and with a rubber mallet, form over the edge, starting from the dashboard end. Close to the tube, use the shaft of the mallet.

Make sure that it is well held as you do it

2B12a.jpg (7820 bytes)         2B13a.jpg (7408 bytes)
You may have a little too much metal left to form over, so if necessary, trim a bit off.

You want the edge of the metal to be "just" over the top of the tube.

2B14a.jpg (8918 bytes)  Good snips are a must here!
Once you've formed the edge over, starting from nearest the dash tube, you can drill & fit a few self tappers along the edge of the panel.

Get them as close to the edge as possible, so that the holes will be covered over later with the trim.

2b15a.jpg (7509 bytes)      
Once you've got the self tappers in, you can do the little piece behind the roll over bar the same.



2B17a.jpg (8189 bytes)
That's it, you've done one side. If this was the first side, make a template of the curve so that you get the other side the same.

Once you've made & fitted the rear wheel arches, the self tappers can be replaced with stainless steel pop rivets as to finalise the fit. Good luck!

OK, Now you need to make the rear wheel arches. AG00050_.gif (1615 bytes)