You can see that I've now got clearance between that plug, and the bulkhead.

I've had to make a new bracket for the alternator, as it finished up about ½" from the exhaust pipe, now it's much lower, and farther away.

It will get tidied up later.

Yippee!    it runs!!  What a noise! I don't know which is noisiest, the exhaust or the carbs.

Anyway I ran it for about 5 minutes, but the hydraulic tappets are still somewhat noisy, the oil hasn't got into one or two of them yet, so the next step is to get the electric fan wired up then I can really warm it up.

YES!! It goes!! much better than the Pinto, and it sounds absolutely brilliant!

I found that the brake pedal was slightly too long, the accelerator pedal too far forwards, but I will give the non-servo brakes a try - out, and see if I can get used to them.

There are a few small jobs still to do to finish it off completely, but all in all, I am very happy with it.

I've had the brake pedal out again, and shortened it, I didn't want to shorten it too much, because I want as much leverage as possible now that there isn't a servo on the brakes. This is how they have finished up, and are spaced OK. The brake light works from the Ford switch to a bracket welded to the pedal. (wire needs clipping up yet)
	I have also fitted stops for the accelerator pedal, the top one is obvious, it is set at maximum throttle opening. This stops you stripping the ends off the cables or damaging the spindles in the carbs by forcing it too far. The bottom one sets the "at rest" position of the pedal, set this first so that you are comfy with the pedal position, then set the "slack" in the throttle cables.
There we go! I got some socks for Christmas! You can see the place where I've put the windscreen washer bottle. This will be covered over with a "box" but will have a quickly removable window to get at the washer bottle for filling. I found that I was getting a serious misfire that could appear anywhere between 5000rpm upwards, it was finally traced to the foam 'socks' being sucked into the ends of the trumpets when the engine was revved hard. I now hold them off going full on by elastic bands, and I no longer have that problem.
Ok, I've had a bit of a problem with the ignition. I bought a second-hand mapped ignition system, that went buggered after a couple of days, after much head scratching and swearing I decided to go for broke, and ordered a brand new, all singing & dancing, mapped ignition system from SBD. When it arrived, it looked like the delivery courier had used it as packing to jack the van up with, consequently it wouldn't work. I sent it back to SBD, who have not replaced it, but sent it back to MBE to be repaired. I'm not a happy chappy! and told them so!! unfortunately, they don't have any more in at the moment (they say!) so it looks like I will have to wait for it's return. Meanwhile, I'm running on another older unit (same as the initial one) that SBD have "given " me. On the last test run, the car pulled like an express train up to 5000rpm, then it was as if a rev limiter came in, I was doing 105mph at the time (on private roads, of course!, officer!) so when the new ignition system comes, and it can then rev to 7750rpm, what then?????? Everything else is finished, but I'm not happy about no heater! so, I have a number of bits of heaters that I'm hoping to marry together to sort out that problem. (nearly )  FINAL THOUGHTS Am I happy with it?  & has it been worth the effort?       On both counts, YES!    There is so much more power & grunt  than the Pinto.  It also looks good! and sounds even better! Price.            I have gone way over the initial budget, but this could be done much cheaper than any other engine swap. Hardest part.    The pedals!   In this model of car, you can't keep the sierra pedal box, you need to sort out something else. It would have been very difficult if I didn't work where I do. Would I recommend it?      Yes, (with reservations about the pedals) and especially in a 2B, where it can be fitted and still keep the Sierra pedal box. in fact, I would fit it in the initial build.
Final photo's of the finished job.

Andy Campbell is putting the Vauxhall engine into his 2B as he builds it. There is much more room in the 2B (apart from the chassis tube under the engine bay (see below), and if you do it from the start, then you can run the fuel lines etc. up the correct side of the car. In fact it is as easy as putting a Pinto engine in a 2B, and easier than an EFI unit. You can even use standard engine mountings from a Vauxhall Carlton (I think, Andy will correct me if I'm wrong)

NOTE.  The "plough" tube that crosses from one side to the other under the engine bay, does however get in the way, you can either cut the bonnet and lift a centre panel up like a wedge, so as to clear the top of the engine, or you could cut out this tube and redesign another strengthening tube to go across.

I've found this explanation from a 16v user on another website, of what parts are required for the "cheaper" method, and it's as good an explanation as I can find.

Firstly, make sure it is a Bosch dizzy-thats the one to use (brown cap as a rule). Then, look for the type that is held on with two nuts clamping elongated holes in the dizzy body, as opposed to a clamp and pinch bolt. If you have got this lucky, next thing to do is whip the dizzy out, and see if the drive is compatable with the 16v-there are two different drives...
The dizzy I originally used was a hybrid of Mk3 Cavalier, and 1400cc Nova. Reason being I managed to source a correct fitting dizzy with the wrong drive, and a smashed dizzy with the right drive. Just swapped the drives over (just knock a roll pin out, drive slides off main shaft).